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Home Improvement Flooring Review

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Installing a new floor in small bathrooms

A bathroom addition is more complex than a bathroom remodeling. You'll probably have to add plumbing and make some structural changes to create the necessary space even for a small powder room. To keep the remodeling cost down, you usually can do the rough-in and finish carpenter work with standard hand tools.

Ensuites can be full bathrooms or 1/2 baths with just a toilet, sink and vanity. Probably the most common flooring to install is lino. But you can use other types of materials. laminate wood is nice if sealed properly and ceramic tile is the most beautiful but it is cold on the feet unless you have a heated floor.

Your floors must be structurally sound to support the weight of bathroom fixtures. Although most homes are constructed to handle the extra load, be extra cautious if you're planning a second-story bathroom addition. The area you are considering using might not be supported by a partition wall below, or have joists that are strong enough to hold the weight without reinforcement.

One way to find out is to check the blueprint and specification sheets for your home. If you don't have these available, consult a builder for help in this area. For any new material you select to install, floor preparation is standard. If the floor is carpeted, remove the old carpeting as well as the partition walls and fixtures. The finish floor underneath may be hardwood, resilient tile, or just a plywood subfloor.

Flooring materials:

Generally, you can lay new materials over the old. But consult your building supply retailer who will give you recommendations on installation techniques for the floor you choose. Of course, no type of flooring should be installed until the -addition is complete.

Ceramic tile is a good choice for bathroom flooring, as it is water- and moisture-proof. You have a wide range of colors from which to choose, along with different sizes.

It's absolutely essential that ceramic tile be laid over a sound surface; otherwise, the base eventually may loosen and pop the tile above it. The first step is to take the old flooring material right down to the bare sub floor. If the floor is hardwood, you don't have to pull it up. You should, however, make sure that the surface is smooth (rent a sander) and free from protruding nails.

Then, lay a waterproof building paper over the subfloor. Overlap it about three inches at the seams and about an inch up the walls. Now you can lay the tiles.
Tiles are sold in sheets with a paper backing—or 'fronting: Spread waterproof mastic over the prepared subfloor, set the tiles, and tap lightly with a hammer, using a block of wood as a buffer. Let the tiles set for several days, then remove the paper and grout the joints with a mixture specially made for this.

Resilient tile and sheet flooring also works well in bathrooms. You can buy 9x9- and 12x12-inch squares in a countless number of colors and patterns. Sheet or strip flooring is manufactured in various widths, colors, and patterns. Some is even textured to simulate the feel of real brick and stone.

Proper floor preparation is the key to a professional-looking job; the bathroom floor has to be smooth, level, and dinner-plate clean. This is true regardless of the surface you are covering —old resilient flooring, hardwood, or sub-flooring of plywood or hardboard.

But you will have to finish hardwood strip flooring (some is prefinished) with penetrating sealer and top coats.

Paint is not recommended for bathroom floors because of moisture and is not a solution for a cheaper floor. Take advantage of discount flooring when it comes on sale.

Ceramic tile is one of the most sturdy floor coverings available. In addition, it comes in a variety of patterns and colors, and is easily maintained. You can purchase ceramic tile in glazed or unglazed form, but for kitchen use, the glazed works best. It can be rather expensive, especially if you have it installed by professional tile setters.

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